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What
is Laser Engraving?
A laser engraver
uses a highly concentrated beam of light to burn or cut into
a variety of materials. Rowmark has developed a complete line
of products specifically for the laser engraving process. Most laserable products are 2-ply
laminates, the top layer (cap) of which can be burned away to
reveal a contrasting substrate below, resulting in one-step
signage. The laser is computer driven and functions by moving
the lens over the surface or bed of a designated area, commonly
18" by 24". The lens can simultaneously move side
to side and front to back with quickly, allowing it
to cover the entire surface of the bed. The beam, focused through
the lens, is capable of firing and shutting off within a fraction
of a second.
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Adjustments
can be made to the speed at which the lens moves and the amount
of power it discharges. Speed and power settings control the
depth of the cut into the material with great precision. This
beam is generated from a laser tube and is directed by a series
of mirrors, through the lens, and finally onto the laser bed.
Laser systems
come equipped with a focus lens, but most manufacturers will
supply alternate focal-length lenses for various uses. These
lenses are usually designated in inches, or the distance required
from lens to material for optimum focus. For example, a 2"
lens would need to be 2" from the material being cut in
order to be properly focused. Focusing is generally achieved not by adjusting the lens
(which is at a fixed height), but by
raising or lowering the bed. The lens size also determines the
diameter and length of the cutting beam. A smaller lens size
produces a shorter and narrower beam.
TIP: Since plastic is fairly easy to engrave
or cut and is very heat sensitive, a lens with the shortest focal
length is the most versatile. Its narrow diameter
beam means less heat is concentrated in its path. It also leaves
a narrower gap between cutouts when vector cutting and is capable
of greater detail engraving.
The laser renders artwork in one of two ways. It will send the
lens in a back and forth motion, intermittently firing in accordance
with the pattern of the artwork and dropping down a predetermined,
fixed distance on each pass. Picture a farmer plowing a field, moving
along one row to the end of the field, reversing direction, dropping
down one row and heading back, etc. This is known as raster engraving.
In the second method, the laser follows outlines that have been
computer generated. In this case, visualize a figure skater moving
around a field of ice. This is called vector cutting.
A design is created using graphics software consisting of images
and/or type. This is sent to the laser in much the same way a file
is sent to any printer, through a parallel port or USB connection. Settings
can be adjusted along the way to control the kind of engraving,
power, and speed desired. Material is placed on the bed, the lens
focused on the materials surface, and the machine is started.
The laser then renders the artwork. Adjustments to the settings, based
on various factors such as the type of material used, are often
necessary to obtain optimum results.
(Back
to Intro)
What
You Need to Get Started
In order
to set up a lasering operation, it is necessary to have a computer
system, appropriate graphics software (CorelDraw or similar
graphics programs), and a laser attached to the computer through
the parallel port or USB connection. (Consult the documentation included with
the laser and software for minimum computer requirements). Remember
to properly vent the laser to remove vapors that result from
cutting and engraving plastics and other materials. (See manufacturers
specifications for further details).
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Cutting
Rowmark material to size (to fit inside your specific laser
system) can be accomplished with a shear (large mechanical cutter),
a plastics hand shear (similar to a paper cutter), a plastics
safety table saw (provides the cleanest edge), or other power
saw units equipped with a blade designed for cutting plastics.
A special utility knife blade is the simplest option and scores
the material, allowing it to be snapped along the scored edge
(surprisingly clean and effective). As long as the sheet can
be cut to fit the laser bed, the material can then be cut into
a particular size. Other fabrication accessories can be acquired
as needed, depending on the nature of the operation being performed.
(Back
to Intro)
About
Laminated Acrylics
As stated
above, Rowmark manufactures laminated acrylic sheets for the
awards, recognition, and signage industries. These sheets consist of
a thinner cap material permanently bonded to a thicker core
material. Most of the products Rowmark recommends for lasering
have a cap thickness of only .001", although a thicker cap
surface may be engraved. This thin cap allows engraving with
minimal power settings at maximum speeds.
Plastics are very heat
sensitive. In order to laser
these products successfully, it is necessary to minimize the amount
of heat contacting the material by either reducing the power or
by increasing the speed. These adjustments can be made when the
job is sent to the laser by changing the printer settings. (See
Raster Engraving, Vector
Cutting, and Settings.) Minimizing
the laser beam diameter by using a smaller focal length lens will
also help prevent overheating.
With the
correct settings, the cap material is removed to reveal
the core material below. Usually the cap material forms the background
of the sign, while the engraved images and type (the exposed core
material) form the subject of the display. This process can be reversed,
but involves the removal of a large quantity of cap material. In
either case, the lasered sign is complete, barring any other fabrication
needs.
Rowmark
materials are available in a variety of thicknesses from 1/32"
to 1/8", depending on the product line. A few unique product
lines offer even thinner gauges. The majority of Rowmark
products are 2-ply. 1-ply materials can be used for cutting
rather than engraving, such as ADA compliant tactile signage, and 3-ply materials
can be used for signs that require engraving on both front and
back.
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Rowmark offers
multiple product lines with a variety of colors
and finishes. Not all Rowmark materials are laserable due to the make-up of the core
material and the thickness of the cap. Many Rowmark product lines
were originally developed for rotary engraving and are ideal for
that application. Some of these products are not suited for laser
engraving. We do not list them as laserable in
our product literature because they require special attention and
often more than one laser pass to achieve desired results. (Please refer
to Product Line Tips and About
Our Product Lines for further information.)
(Back
to Intro)
Preparing
Artwork
Graphics programs such as CorelDraw and Adobe Illustrator allow
you to use both text and images in a design. Laser engravers are able
to render such artwork as long as it is presented in black, white
or shades of gray. Lasers can only engrave and cut material. They
do not print, therefore they are incapable of applying color. The
final output can be rendered in color through the choice of color
materials and fabrication methods, but the artwork itself must be
black and white or grayscale. A specific and limited set of
colors can be applied to the outline or fill of any artwork, but
only for the purpose of establishing an engraving order utilized
by the laser printer driver. These assigned colors will still print
as though they were black.
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There are two primary methods the computer can use to render images: raster and vector. To understand raster
images, imagine coloring in the squares on a sheet of graph paper
in order to form a picture.
The quality of such a rendering would improve as the size of the
graph squares became smaller and increased in number. All raster
images are made up of tiny solid colored squares, whose appearance
improves with increased resolution (diminished pixel size). The
computer must keep track of every pixel location (every square on
the graph paper) and of which solid color is applied to each specific
pixel at each location. Because of this, file sizes for raster images
can be quite large.
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Vector images, on the other hand, are created by
computer design tools that create
outlines. The computer remembers these outlines as mathematical
formulas, which proves to be a more efficient method and generally
results in smaller file sizes. The computer reads the outline
as a series of points with lines flowing from one location to the
next at varying angles and curves. The software allows these points
and their corresponding outlines to be moved and adjusted in order
to create artwork. The mathematical nature of these files allows
the computer to talk to machinery such as plotters and engravers.
Therefore, vector oriented software is generally used to create
the artwork that is sent to a laser.
The terms raster and vector are also applied to
the laser operations themselves,
even though only vector images are being sent to it. The raster
method is used to fill areas, and the vector method is used to follow
outlines. This use of the terms raster and vector does make some
sense when applied to the operation of the laser, but should not
be confused with its meaning in regard to the creation of computer
images.
For the most part, images and text in the above-mentioned programs
will be in outline (vector) format. This artwork can be left as
outlines or filled with black, white or grayscale tones or gradients.
In the vector mode, the laser beam actually follows the outline
as a path and can engrave through the cap or cut through the material.
In the raster mode, the laser moves in the back and forth motion
described above until it renders the fill inside the shape.
For example, text usually appears on the monitor as filled with
black, but its fill can be changed to white and the outline changed
from none to black to allow the letters to be vector cut from the
material chosen. (It is often necessary for the outline to be assigned
a thickness, such as .003" or less, so the laser can vector
cut rather than raster engrave the outline. Consult your specific
machine documentation for details.)
Any vector artwork that has been filled, or whose outlines are
heavier than mentioned above, will automatically be raster engraved.
In raster engraving, the laser beam moves back and forth progressing
down the page in a field-plowing fashion. As the lens moves across
the page, it fires and cuts through the cap of the laminate wherever
it finds corresponding black images in the artwork file. The image
is rendered line by line, generally working from the top of the
page to the bottom until the image is complete.
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Images created using the raster method on the computer are known
as bitmap images. Bitmap images, which include scanned images, photographs,
some clipart, and images created in programs such as Adobe PhotoShop and
Corel Photo-Paint, can also be lasered. They are composed of a grid of
tiny squares of color. There are no outlines to follow, so the laser
can only raster engrave these types of images unless they have first
been converted to vector outlines. These images must be in black,
white or grayscale, and are generally imported into a software program
such as CorelDraw to send artwork to the laser. Grayscale and photo
lasering will be discussed at length under Photo
Lasering.
(Back
to Intro)
Raster
Engraving
As mentioned
earlier, both vector and raster (bitmap) images can be raster
engraved. A file is prepared in a size no larger than the engraving
bed, and the artwork is created and placed within that page.
Material is chosen, cut to size, and placed in the laser bed.
An appropriate lens is selected for the job and focused so the
distance from the surface of the material to the lens equals
the designated lens size. (A 3.5" lens needs to be 3.5"
from the top of the material. Follow machine instructions for
appropriate focusing.) Since photographic and grayscale images
are more complex to prepare, well discuss only black and
white images here.
The intricacy of the image is not a factor as long as it fits on
the page and is only black or white. Make sure the laser has been
turned on, is properly vented, and is connected to the computer
through the parallel or USB port. Then, simply go to "file" and
select "print".
Make sure the lasers printer driver software has been properly
installed and the laser model has been selected from the printer
options. A settings dialog box should appear on your screen. For
raster engraving, enter the desired settings for power, speed, and
DPI (dots per inch - refers to the distance down the page the lens
will drop as it moves from pass to pass). The higher the DPI setting,
the more passes required to complete the job, thus lengthening the
rendering time. A normal DPI setting would be 500. Higher DPI settings
allow for greater detail but also take longer to engrave since more
passes are required. Lower DPI settings result in coarser rendering
and take less time since fewer passes are required.
When raster engraving, it is advisable to optimize the
speed, which translates to a 100% setting. For most lasers,
a power setting of around 30-50% is appropriate for laminates
designed for lasering such as Rowmarks LaserMark, LaserMax
or FlexiBrass materials. Once these figures have been entered, the
file can be sent to the laser.
Depending on the machine, the lasering will begin immediately or
the file will be displayed on an LCD display on the laser,
at which point the start button can be pressed and the lasering
begins.
As the lens begins its sweep from left to right and right to left,
it will only concentrate on the black areas of the artwork. Thus,
if a tiny black dot appears on the top of the page and there is
nothing else in that portion of the page, the lens will make several
passes back and forth but only over the perimeter of the dot in
order to engrave it. It will not make full sweeps across the page
unless it finds something else to laser. This allows for efficient
operation, and, as the lens moves down the page, it automatically
jumps over any blank areas. If there is a tiny dot at the top of
both the left and right hand sides of the page, the laser will sweep
from one dot to the next, back again, until both dots are rendered.
It will not quickly render one and then jump over to the other since
it must complete one sweep before moving down to the next. If it
finds no black in its path, the lens will skip that pass as well
as others until it finds black to render. If it finds two or more
instances of black in its path, it will jump to the first instance,
sweep across to the next, etc. until the last mark is rendered,
at which point it will jump down to the next line. Understanding
this pattern can be quite helpful and allow the engraver to save
much time by taking advantage of the color coding of elements.
Once the final line is engraved, the lens returns to its home
location. The job is complete so the laser's lid can be lifted and the
lasered substrate can be removed.
(Back
to Intro)
Vector
Cutting
While it is possible to raster engrave most vector images, it is
not possible to vector cut raster (bitmap) images unless they have
first been converted to vectors by hand or through some automated
conversion program. For instance, if a logo is scanned with the
intention of cutting that logo out of some material, it will not
initially be possible since scanning automatically creates raster
(bitmap) images. The bitmap needs to be manually traced (most accurate)
using the bezier tool in a program such as CorelDraw or by using
the auto-trace feature of Corel R.A.V.E. or some other program. Once it is
traced, the logo is in an outline or vector format and can be vector
cut. When the laser is in its vector mode, it drives the lens over
the engraving bed directly tracing the outline or path of the vector
image on the screen.
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Vector paths can be individual lines or the closed outline surrounding
a shape. Vector artwork can be made up of any number of lines or
shapes, including text. The laser will move from one line or shape
to the next until the artwork is completed. In most cases, the engraving
order can be controlled.
Most fonts are created as vector outlines but usually appear on
the screen filled with black and with no outline visible. By giving
them an outline and changing the fill to white or no-fill, it is
possible vector cut them.
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As with
raster engraving, it is first necessary to create a page using
a graphics program such as CorelDraw. The page size of the
document should not exceed the bed size of the laser. The outlines
then need to be drawn or imported and arranged. Once the artwork
is complete, the file is printed as discussed in the Raster
Engraving section. When the settings dialogue box appears,
the important categories shown include the speed and power.
DPI is not an issue at this time. What is important is the number
of firings per inch referred to as Rate or PPI (pulses per inch),
with the higher number of pulses creating smoother but hotter
lines. For acrylics, this setting should be on the low side to
avoid excessive heat buildup (between 150 and 500 PPI). With
vector cutting, the power should generally be 100% with the speed varying to accommodate material type
and thickness. This allows it to achieve the desired cutting
depth without overheating or burning the material. Generally,
the speed should not exceed 12% since higher speeds tend to
cause an over-cut in tight areas. For intricate work, very slow
speeds such as 2% to 3 % might provide the
best results. In such instances, the power setting will also
need to be lowered until the desired cutting depth is achieved
without burning.
Once the settings have been established, click OK in the dialogue
box. The file will be sent to the laser and the cutting will begin
immediately or need to be started manually by pressing the start
button.
(Back
to Intro)
Settings
Laser settings
vary substantially from system to system. Even two systems of
the same make, model, and wattage can require different settings
for optimum results. Many companies manufacture lasers and each
is making constant improvements. New models with new features
continue to emerge. It would be nearly impossible to list settings
for all Rowmark product lines covering every manufacturer, every
model and wattage. The best advice is to become familiar with
your machine and follow the suggestions below.
DETERMINING THE SETTINGS
Offering
precise settings for laser engraving is a difficult task due to the
wide variations in laser machinery and materials. It is quite
possible that two machines of the same manufacturer, model, and
wattage may require different settings to achieve optimal results.
The best
advice begins with becoming familiar with how a particular laser
functions and how its settings can be adjusted. To understand
the variances of your machine, we recommend these test steps.
Raster
Engraving:
For raster
engraving, create a 1" square using the graphics software.
Fill it with black and with no outline. Enter settings that
seem to make sense for the intended use, keeping in mind that
the key variable should be the power setting, leaving the speed
setting at 100%. Send the file to the laser and begin lasering.
A close look after even a few strokes should make it clear whether
the cut is too deep, too shallow, or just right. If necessary,
reset the power and try again until the depth is just right.
Most systems allow the power to be reset on the fly. This means
that as the square is being lasered, the power can be increased
or decreased until the right depth is achieved. (Check owners
manual for specific instructions.) Be sure to make a note of
the settings since these should work whenever that particular
material is used on that specific system.
Vector
Cutting:
For vector
cutting, make three 1" squares using the graphics software.
Assign them a .001" outline and a color that corresponds to
the engraving order along with no fill color. Keep the settings
on all three squares the same except for the speed. Assign a high,
low and middle speed to the squares. If you are unfamiliar with
the engrave by color aspect of your software, make one
square and send it three times with a different speed setting each
time. Send the job to the laser and evaluate the depth of cut.
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The setting
that produced the best result may need to be refined. If the
cut didnt quite make it through the material, then the
speed will need to be decreased to slow the lens down in order
to burn deeper. If, on the other hand, the material cut all
the way through but heat damage occurred, the speed will have
to be increased to reduce the burn. Adjustments at this level
can be very subtle, such as single percentage points or on some
machines even tenths of a percentage point. Using the same file,
send three different speed settings very close to the best speed
setting from the first attempt to the laser. Usually this second
attempt will yield the desired results. If not, try the test
again with three different speed settings. Be sure to note the
settings.
When the
speeds are increased much beyond 4% and there are a mix of straight
lines and curves in the file, a differential in cutting depth
may occur between the curves and the straight lines. (There
may be a built in maximum speed allowable for the rendering
of curves.)
As in the
example above, 4% may be the maximum speed. Use 4% maximum speed
for cutting, leave that speed setting as the constant and, as
in raster engraving, make the power setting the variable. Adjust
your settings up or down to cut through the material
with a minimal amount of burning.
Try vector
cutting a rounded corner rectangle to make sure the same cutting
depth is achieved on both the straight lines and the curves.
If the depth varies, then lower the speed until the lens moves
at about the same speed for both curves and straight lines.
There is no need to cut material during this test a visual
check should suffice. Once the speed is established then lower
the power setting until the right cutting depth is achieved.
SAMPLE SETTINGS
Rowmark
products have been tested using specific laser models from three
well known manufacturers. Based on that testing, settings have
been compiled that might be used as a starting benchmark for
both raster engraving and vector cutting. These settings are
for the machines specified and may or may not be useful for
other makes, models, and wattages. Ultimately each product
will need to be tested on a specific machine for the best results.
The following describes the machine, the lens, and unique characteristics:
Universal
Laser Systems®
25E - 25 Watt, 1.5" lens
Power 0-100% Speed 0-100%
PPI 0-1000 pulses per inch
DPI 0-1000 passes per
vertical inch
Epilog Profile - 25 Watt, 2" lens
Power 0-100% Speed 0-100%
Rate 0-100% (similar to PPI)
DPI 0-1200 passes per
vertical inch
GCC Laser
Pro - 25 Watt, 2" lens
Power 0-100% Speed 0-100%
PPI (not available on this model)
DPI 0-1000 passes
per vertical inch
Raster Engraving
Overview
Only the power and speed settings are noted, assuming the DPI and
PPI settings will be mid range (500 Universal/GCC and 600
- Epilog). In most cases the speed setting will be 100%. In the
event the power setting is at its maximum, the speed setting will
be lowered to gain added burn. The setting will be expressed as
power/speed (100/85).
Vector Cutting
Overview
Only the power and speed settings are listed, assuming the PPI
setting for Universal will be 250, and the Rate setting for the
Epilog will be 7. No similar setting option is available on the
version of the GCC LaserPro tested. The settings will also be expressed
as power/speed (100/85).
True Laserables (See Product
Line Tips/True Laserables
True laserables
are Rowmark's recommended products for lasering.
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Universal
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Epilog
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GCC
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| Raster Engrave |
Power/Speed |
Power/Speed |
Power/Speed |
| LaserLIGHTS |
40/100 |
40/100 |
70/100 |
| LASERmag |
50/100 |
50/100 |
80/100 |
| LaserMax |
40/100 |
40/100 |
70/100 |
| LaserMark |
30/100 |
30/100 |
60/100 |
| LaserMark Rev |
30/100 |
30/100 |
60/100 |
|
FlexiBrass/FlexiColor
|
25/100 |
25/100 |
50/100 |
| Textures Pass 1 |
40/100 |
40/100 |
100/85 |
|
Textures Pass 2 |
20/100
|
20/100 |
100/85 |
| Vector Cut |
Power/Speed |
Power/Speed |
Power/Speed |
| LaserLIGHTS |
25/10 |
50/25 |
50/2 |
| LASERmag |
100/10 |
100/20 |
100/2 |
| LaserMax |
100/ 4 |
100/32 |
100/3 |
| LaserMark |
100/4 |
100/32 |
100/3 |
| LaserMark Reverse |
100/4 |
100/32 |
100/3 |
| FlexiBrass/FlexiColor |
50/10 |
100/50 |
100/5 |
| Textures |
100/3.5 |
100/20 |
100/2 |
Transitionals (See Product
Line Tips/Transitionals)
Transitionals
are Rowmark's products originally developed for rotary engraving.
Rowmark does not include these products in its line of laserable
materials, but they can be successfully lasered using extra
care and, in most cases, two passes.
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Universal
|
Epilog
|
GCC
|
| Raster Engrave |
Power/Speed |
Power/Speed |
Power/Speed |
| Metals/NoMark Plus |
40/100 |
40/100 |
60/100 |
| Mattes |
45/100 |
45/100 |
65/100 |
| OW Metals
Pass 1 |
65/100 |
65/100 |
100/85 |
|
Pass 2
|
30/100 |
30/100 |
100/85 |
| Lacquers Pass 1 |
65/100 |
65/100 |
100/60 |
| Pass 2 |
30/100 |
30/100 |
100/60 |
| Slickers Pass 1 |
90/100 |
90/100 |
100/60 |
| Pass 2 |
40/100 |
40/100 |
100/60 |
| UM Front Pass 1 |
80/100 |
80/100 |
100/60 |
| Pass 2 |
30/100 |
30/100 |
30/100 |
| UM Rev Pass 1 |
75/100 |
75/100 |
100/75 |
| Pass 2 |
25/100
|
25/100 |
100/75 |
| Vector Cut |
Power/Speed |
Power/Speed |
Power/Speed |
| Metals/NM Plus Pass 1 |
100/ 2 |
100/18 |
100/3 |
| Pass 2 |
100/8 |
100/30 |
100/4 |
| Mattes Pass 1 |
100/2 |
100/18 |
100/3 |
| Pass 2 |
100/8 |
100/30 |
100/4 |
| OW Metals Pass 1 |
100/2 |
100/18
|
100/3 |
| Pass 2 |
100/8 |
100/30 |
100/4 |
| Lacquers Pass 1 |
100/2 |
100/18 |
100/3 |
| Pass 2 |
100/8 |
100/30 |
100/4 |
| Slickers Pass 1 |
100/2 |
100/18 |
100/3 |
| Pass 2 |
100/8 |
100/30 |
100/4 |
| UM Front Pass 1 |
100/2 |
100/18 |
100/3 |
| Pass 2 |
100/8 |
100/30 |
100/4 |
| UM Reverse Pass 2 |
100/2 |
100/18 |
100/3 |
| Pass 2 |
100/8 |
100/30 |
100/4 |
Traditionals (See Product Line
Tips/Traditionals)
Traditionals
are Rowmark's products developed for rotary engraving and are
not recommended for lasering. Satins and Silks might vector
cut using the settings listed below.
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Universal
|
Epilog
|
GCC
|
| Raster Engrave |
Power/Speed |
Power/Speed |
Power/Speed |
| Satins |
Do Not Laser |
| Silks |
Do Not Laser |
|
HeavyWeights
|
Do Not Laser |
| ColorLine |
Do Not Laser |
| Vector Cut |
Power/Speed |
Power/Speed |
Power/Speed |
| Satins Pass 1 |
100/ 2 |
100/18 |
100/3 |
| Pass 2 |
100/8 |
100/30 |
100/4 |
| Silks Pass 1 |
100/2 |
100/18 |
100/3 |
| Pass 2 |
100/8 |
100/30 |
100/4 |
| HeavyWeights |
Do Not Laser |
| ColorLine |
Do Not Laser |
(Back
to Intro)
Fabrication
Tips
Preventing Heat Damage
Vector cutting
simply means the laser is following vector paths created in
a vector software program such as CorelDraw (See Preparing
Artwork). Adjustments to the speed setting (it is generally
easier to keep the power setting constant when vector cutting)
will determine the depth to which the beam will cut, including
cutting all the way through the substrate. Slower speed settings
generate much more heat for vector cutting than for raster engraving.
During vector cutting, the beam follows a linear path which
usually prevents heat buildup in a particular area even though
it is cutting all the way through the substrate. A lot of material
is being removed in the wake of the path, and this material
vents up and out from the cut line in the direction of the exhaust.
One common problem when cutting through a substrate is hot debris
which glazes the exhaust-facing edges of the cut line. The entry
point (surface level) is most susceptible to damage since it
receives the more sustained blast of heat than the opposite
side on the bottom. Even though the laser beam is perfectly
straight sided, the walls of the cut do tend to angle up slightly
in a v-shape, because of that heat damage. In addition to the
glaze from the debris, the top edges of the cut can appear marred
from burning.
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To counter these
effects, the smallest focal length lens (smallest diameter beam
means less heating area) is recommended together with the minimum
combined power and speed settings possible in order to cut through
the material. Also lowering the number of pulse firings per
inch will keep things cooler. If the PPI is lowered too much,
though, the cut edge will start to take on a serrated appearance.
In extreme cases, two passes will allow lower combined settings
per pass and also minimize damage.
Many engravers use a honeycomb insert, which helps to dissipate
heat and debris by raising the material off of the laser bed. This
helps but does not eliminate the heat build-up and debris entirely,
coming out the top. Others mask the material and wet it down before
cutting, which produces good results, but is time consuming.
Our experiences
show that the most effective method for vector cutting is to
cut from the back to the front. This requires the on-screen
image to be flipped in order for the cut piece to be right reading
and to place the material in the laser bed face down. It also
requires cutting directly on the laser bed, not on a honeycomb
insert. (When the laser hits the edges of the honeycomb cells,
it bounces back causing a pitting that will ruin the surface
of the material it is in contact with.) Whenever it is convenient,
leave the factory masking on the front surface and if good results
are still not being achieved, try spraying the bed with water
to absorb heat before laying the material face down with the
masking on. If two passes still prove necessary, adjust the
first setting so the cut travels nearly all the way through
the substrate. The second cut, the one affecting the face of
the material, should be adjusted to a much cooler setting, just
enough to cut through the remaining substrate and cap. This
method is successful with nearly all Rowmark products, including
the thickest (1/8") stock, and can result in no surface
damage.
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Often it is necessary to cut and engrave in one operation. When
cutting face down, it is necessary to cut first, flip the cut pieces
and remove the masking, all before engraving. There should be no
registration problems, since the background serves as a template.
Irregular shapes pose a greater problem and require more planning
in order to ensure good registration. If removing the masking from
the individual pieces before engraving becomes an issue, take the
masking off before cutting, but be sure to mist the engraving bed
with water to help absorb heat and prevent burning before laying
down the material.
Engraving Large Open Areas
Heat and
plastic do not mix well. When the laser engraves large open
images or text, it passes back and forth over the same area
very rapidly until the image has been engraved. Because a large
quantity of cap material is removed in a concentrated area,
the heat does not have a chance to dissipate, overheating can
occur, and substrate warping may result. Every effort should
be made to minimize the heat. Power settings should be as low
as possible as long as the beam still cuts through the cap.
Lowering the DPI and PPI settings will also help. In extreme
cases, using two passes, each with a lower power setting, can
make the difference. However, this will increase the engraving
time dramatically.
If the bed is sprayed with a light misting of water and the material
is placed face up, the water will act as a cooling agent and absorb
some of the heat, thus preventing warpage. This works particularly
well with thin gauge material such as FlexiBrass and 1/32"
stock. Wiping up excess water from around the sheet and taping at
least the outer edges can also help, especially with the thinner
gauges.
Small Text and Detailed Graphics
For small text, especially serif or italic fonts, and intricate
images with minute details, it is best to use the smallest available
lens (1.5" recommended). High DPI and PPI settings can also
improve clarity, but only use 1000 DPI as a last resort since it
will increase engraving time. It is a worthwhile sacrifice, however,
if quality is paramount. Power settings may also need to be increased
to render these tiny areas, since the pulsing is so intermittent.
If all of the above methods have been tried and the output still
does not look right, perform this little test. Open a new document,
type five plus signs in 10 to 12 point type, and laser it at the
settings mentioned above. If the horizontal bars are heavier than
the vertical bars, slow the speed setting from 100% to 50% and cut
the power setting in half as well. Try this lower speed on the job
file and see if there are better results. Both bars should appear
as the same weight.
When the laser beam moves across the page, it pulses rapidly whenever
it encounters image or text. If the text is small enough, the laser
has to turn on and off extremely rapidly which does not give it
a chance to burn through fully. By reducing the laser speed, the
beam will be able to fully render what is intended. Your laser manufacturer
may be able to help remedy this problem; but, in the meantime, decreasing
the time setting should resolve it.
Removing Engraving Dust
Some jobs
where a lot of cap material is being removed become coated with
dust and residue. This can happen on pieces that contain large
open areas of text or graphics, or on jobs where a lot of detail
is being removed all across the surface, particularly as seen
in photo laser engraving. These dust particles can smear into
the substrate and ruin the job if they are wiped with a dry
or, even worse, a wet cloth. This dust contains colorants and
is so fine that when mixed with any fluid almost immediately
turns into a kind of paint. The best way to eliminate the dust
without ruining the background is to place masking over the
entire surface. Press it down and squeegee it in place several
times. Peel it off, and the dust particles will adhere to the
masking. Usually after one application of the masking, the sign
can be cleaned using a spray cleaner and cloth. On some jobs,
especially photos, two or three applications of masking may
be necessary.
Out of Focus FlexiBrass
Jobs that
utilize Rowmarks FlexiBrass (.020" thickness) and
cover a large portion of the engraving bed may start to engrave
successfully, but for no apparent reason the cap suddenly does
not cut all the way through. If this happens, try taping down
all the sheet edges. With such a thin substrate, the air flow
from the exhaust can slightly lift the material enough to throw
it out of focus. By simply taping down the edges, the problem
is usually solved.
Many manufacturers offer a vacuum bed. This does a great job of
holding down just about any material, but a roll of 3/4" masking
tape should work just fine as long as care is taken not to place
it in the live image area.
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